Wednesday, December 26, 2007

HAVILAH VILLAGE








Two weeks ago Emily & I were enjoying our day off when Max came by the apartment to ask for our help with something. An orphanage up the hill, twenty minutes from where we are staying, has ten children between the ages of 3 and 6 years old with two nannies living there. Unfortunately both nannies had malaria and needed some time off to rest and recuperate. “Would you be willing to help out by taking care of the children for a couple of weeks?” Of course! Within an hour we were packed up and had arrived at our new home, Havilah Village, started by Global Vessels (a non-profit out of DC). The long term plan is to have 10 of these households situated here, two others are built and another group of children is expected to arrive in the next month or so. The ten children spoke no English and Emily & I, as much as we have been trying, still know very little Kiswahili. This was going to be great.

Fortunately for us the children were relatively well behaved and were patient with us as they tried to explain what they needed, what part of their body was currently hurting and in need of attention, who took what from whom, etc. And on top of trying to give love and attention to these children who only three months ago came to live at the house, we were also figuring out how to cook, clean, do laundry, teach in the “activity room”, and maintain our sanity. They were long days, and sometimes long nights comforting sick or simply sad children who were missing their parents or relatives (we didn’t always know).

Emily & I quickly fell in love with these children. Karen, age 6, is one of the hardest workers I’ve ever seen. She would get upset with us for not letting her do the dishes, cook, bathe the other children and mop the floors (which apparently the nannies have her doing every day). Dorcas, age 6, loves to dance and make up stories that we don’t understand. Her little sister Jacqueline, age 3, is beautiful and playful when happy, but cried often when she was not held and whenever it was time for bed. Victoria, age 4, was shy and smiled a lot when she was happy, but was also depressed and cried quite a bit while we were there, perhaps sad because she was missing her family or because she was not sure why her nannies were gone and we where there. We were told she and her sister were very thin and had been treated very badly when they arrived 3 months earlier. Her twin sister, Vivian, the monkey, is a bouncing, jumping, climbing, excitable child who we sometimes thought was hard of hearing or simply in her own world. Veronica, age 4, our flower child, craves love and attention, but is not the sharpest tool in the shed. Eric, age 6, is the oldest boy, always wanted to help out, but hadn’t been exposed to the amount of chores Karen and Dorcas had simple because he was a boy and culturally boys don’t help with the housework. Abdu Rahi, age 4, usually had a smile on his face and was in a good mode. He loved games and was very sly about hitting or taking things from the other kids, only doing it when we didn’t see and always with a smile on his face. Yasini, age 3, is a cute kid who frustratingly would cry sometimes, but not tell us what the issue was. Usually it was something as simple as he wanted to sleep in the top bunk rather than the bottom. Enoch, age 3, was not bothered by the fact that we did not understand what he was saying. He would talk and talk, repeating things over and over to us without getting frustrated. He also habitually wore his sandals on the wrong feet.

(Emily)
It seems that we keep having experiences that we claim will be the ‘best’ or ‘most memorable’ part of our trip. Right now I am saying that our stay at Havilah Village is sure to be on the top of that list. Two weeks seems like such a short time, but for some reason it feels like we have spent months there…with our ten kids.

Setting:
As much as we are in love with the kids, we are in love with the setting of this village. We are out in a rural village that is situated on a small hilltop. The air is much cooler and from our front porch we can look out over the bush and see Mt. Kilimanjaro! Behind us is the second tallest peak in Tanzania, Mt. Meru. We are also just outside the gates of the National Park where we took our first safari game drive.

Domestic Labor?:
Before we left on this trip I had mentioned that I was actually feeling the need to become more domestic, to really know what it means to have to work in order to meet basic needs. The American household has become relatively easy to run with its washing machines, dishwashers, and mops heads that actually stay attached to the stick. Man did I get what I asked for! I found myself constantly thinking of my Grandmothers, both put a lot of hard work into raising their 7 and 9 children, both passed away this last year. As I was de-boning a whole chicken (Ned removed the head and feet), hanging the laundry out to dry, or moping the floors daily I often wondered if I could ‘hang’ with my Grandma Brock out on the farm. Do I have what it takes to work as hard as she did, not just for two weeks but day after day, year after year? Am I capable of standing in the kitchen all day long in order to prepare just one meal? Would I ever be able to find joy in domestic labor? Did she enjoy it, or did she spend her day wishing that she had a house girl to do the work while she went to the Whitman Hotel for lunch? One afternoon while Karen and I were washing our 10 plates, 10 cups, and 10 lunch forks Ned overheard the little boys playing outside and saying something ridiculously funny; we laughed so hard that I started crying and the 6 year old was looking at me like ‘can you pull it together- we have a job to do here.’ I realized that yes- there is a lot of joy to be had at home working away with your little family. We were working hard and having fun. I am lucky b/c I am pretty sure that neither of my Grandmothers had their husbands alongside to do half of the work!

Karen:
Karen is the 6 year old that Ned described as a hard worker. She really put me to shame as she instructed me on the proper way to really scrub all of those children in the bath, and then thoroughly scrub tub between each bath… I am pretty sure I would have just filled the tub back up with water. She would give my cousin Jessica or even Aunt Sheri a run for their money in the hard worker department. She is the one who took to us the most and it was really hard on her when we told her we were leaving. She spent the morning crying, which is something she had not done once during our visit. She had been staying with her Grandmother who taught her how to READ, how to speak a little English, and how to do simple math. But since moving into this house with these nannies she had not been given a book or toy; they have been treating her as their own little house girl. We are pretty certain she does all the dishes, scrubs all the floors, washes everyone’s house slippers everyday, etc. One night at dinner she waved for my attention and I realized that she was actually choking on her food. Panic, Oh my God, what do you do. I was already hitting her on the back when I realized that was the wrong thing to do and that she needed the Heimlich. At that very instant the power went out, as it does most nights. Charming; now we are in the pitch black, all the other children are excitedly screaming about the lights, Karen, or something else, and I am trying to get her out of her chair and find that one spot on her body. We managed to complete the task, the lights came back on, and there were only a few tears. Her tears, not mine, although I really felt like I wanted to cry!

Nannies:
I could go on and on about the nannies, but the short story is that they are stealing from the children’s home. They think they have hit the jackpot because these wealthy Americans have set up this home for the kids but have no idea how much things here really cost. Until now they have been left to determine what and how much food the children need each week. But after just two weeks we have realized that they are taking Global Vessels for 3 times what they actually need and handing the rest of the money and food out to their family and friends back at home. The sad part is that this is VERY common here and it is virtually impossible to hire a local that can be trusted not to cheat, even if it is just a little. We are pretty upset about it. If there is extra money it should be going to the children’s school tuition. We are going to suggest to this organization that we stay there, do the grocery shopping for them and keep the nannies from handling any of the money at all. The need for some sort of supervisor will be even greater as the other houses come on line and fill up with children, so we are really excited about the prospect of getting more involved.

More on this later. For now we will say a belated Merry Christmas! Hope yours was good. Ours was wonderful!

ONE MONTH

We have been at Cradle of Love for four weeks now and although the initial shock has worn off, there are still many times when I don’t know what is going to happen next. This week was probably the most eventful with three new babies arriving (2 month old Georgina and 11 month old twins Mishric and Chadric), and two toddlers leaving. Philip and Maria are each nearing four years old and are HIV positive. They were able to be placed in a government run home for children with HIV. We were both sad to see them go and happy for them to have a home to grow up beyond what the baby home here can provide for them. We hope we will be able to visit sometime.

There was also a wedding party that stopped by last weekend, complete with marching band, three truckloads of bridal party members, and lots of dancing. They wanted to begin their life together with an act of charity, which was much appreciated by the staff here. I did not have my camera with me upon their arrival and was only able to get one shot of the bride & groom’s truck as it was leaving, but I know Davona has posted some photos on the Cradle of Love web site.

Last weekend we also took our first field trip with the toddlers to a local animal sanctuary. There were zebra, monkey, porcupine, one lone crocodile, and many different types of birds. Even more fun than seeing the animals was the car ride. The kids loved it, especially the older boys, Philip, Simon, and Cory. “Gari! Gari!” they kept shouting the entire two mile trip.

Well, it’s taken me awhile to learn, but I think I’m now proficient at putting cloth diapers on the kids. The nannies no longer take my “work of art” and re-wrap the child properly. I’m no where near as quick as the experts, but I feel good knowing that I can get the job done. I’m also more skilled at bathing the kids, which at first involved a lot of kicking and screaming by both me and the child. I suppose I’m not the only one who has made it to thirty one having never done either of these tasks in my life.

Emily has been working with the toddlers this week during classroom time to learn shapes. They started by learning a circle the first day and were able to turn two circles into a “gari” (i.e. car). The second day was a square, which turned into a house, and the third day was a star. What’s next?

Friday, November 30, 2007

CONSTRUCTION METHODS



We thought this concrete shoring looked pretty scary….until we saw this construction site! The women are better at hauling buckets of water on their heads, so you can see them carrying water bit by bit to add to the concrete mix. The men have formed a line to toss buckets of concrete person by person up to the second level. The whole site looked like a busy little ant hill. How thankful we are for cement trucks and hard hats!!!





ARUSHA NATIONAL PARK

Last weekend our friend Trenton came to visit. He has been working in Nairobi for two months with a micro finance organization that provides loans to low income workers. His visit gave us an excuse to go out for a couple of nice meals and also go on our first safari! Arusha National Park is only 20 km from where we are living, but rarely visited by the regular safari crowd who are going to the bigger parks; Serengeti or Ngorongoro. It made for a perfect day trip. Our guide book informed us that hiring a ranger and walking thru part of the park was an option, which sounded like a great way to get some exercise (unlike us Trenton has been spending his days sitting at a desk). However, when we arrived at the first gate, the park ranger told us that yes, it was possible to go on a walking safari, but not to the part of the park we wanted to go to. He also told us that the only way to get to the next gate, from where the walking safari started, was by taxi. Somewhat reluctantly we opted to hire a driver (with a pop-top van) for the day to take us thru the park, which in hindsight was a good idea because we were able to see much more of the park and get much closer to the animals. The Animals! Within the first 100 yards we came upon a heard of giraffe, practically in the road. There were eight or ten of these majestic creatures just relaxing, eating, passing the time. We could have stayed and watched them all day, but our driver was eager to keep going, a sign which we took to mean the entire park would be as densely populated. So for the next hour we drove thru the mountain and saw only colobus monkeys, sausage trees, and elephant dung. We did get a chance to walk for a little bit after the van spun out and could not make it all the way up the hill, but this part of the day was overall uneventful. Moving thru the next section of the park we saw many baboons; then zebra, buffalo, water buck, huge warthogs, gazelle-like creatures, and some unidentifiable birds (sorry Lacey). In addition the day was clear and we had great views of Mt. Meru and caught our first glimpse of Mt. Kilimanjaro. We could write more, but I think checking out the photos will tell the rest of the story.

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

NEEMA'S BIRTHDAY





One of our favorite nannies, Neema (a very common name that means Grace in Swahili), came to work the other night and told me it was her Birthday. Why didn’t you tell us earlier, we could have made you a cake! She admitted that it was kind of a bummer to be babysitting on her Birthday, but that there was no reason to complain. She was just thankful and praising God that she was having a 24th Birthday because she has had a good life. How sweet is that!

When we returned to our apartment later that night we realized that we had a couple things stashed away for a kid's birthday party, like birthday hats and candles. We even had a couple small loafs of banana bread and a bottle of chocolate syrup, so we added a few bananas, came up with a makeshift birthday cake, lit the candles and took in downstairs to sing happy birthday! It was really cute because she was so excited. We got the impression that they don’t do the ‘birthday candle’ thing because she looked at us like ‘why is my cake on fire’ and on of the other ladies had to tell her to blow them out. She wanted a proper birthday photo taken, so she changed from her nanny clothes into her normal clothes.

Apparently the custom is for the birthday girl to feed her guests their first bite of cake, and for someone to feed her as well. So we have photos of everyone taking their ceremonial bite!

Tuesday, November 20, 2007

"WHO'S YOUR FAVORITE TODAY?"

Everynight after we put the kids to bed, Emily likes to play a game we call "Who's your favorite today?" That's when we talk about what each of the kids did that day, who was good and who was not so good. As we get to know each of their personalities better, and as they get more comfortable with us, it is easier for us to tell which kids are just having a bad day and which ones scream their heads off because it's their nature. We also get to see the pure goodness of some of the kids, like Cory, who will share his bread with someone who did not get as much. What is it that makes people so different? These kids that grow up in the same place, eat the same food, and share everything (clothes, toys, food) each have such unique personalities. It is enjoyable to get to know each of them and love them all, but impossible not to have favorites.

Ned

Thursday, November 15, 2007

CRADLE OF LOVE




CRADLE OF LOVE
I really wanted to write our first ‘blog’ about the hiking trip we took through the remote villages in the Usambara Mountains. We have not seen Kilimanjaro yet or been on a safari, but I am pretty sure this 3 day trek with a hired guide will be top on our list of tourist things to do while in Tanzania. But, now that we are settled in at the baby home that is foremost on the mind!

We have been working now for 4 days and I am already at home sick. Partly because I spent too many hours in the baby home and became exhausted too quickly, but mostly because there are a lot of coughs, colds, and runny noses. I am actually a little thankful for being ‘out’ today because it has given me a chance to sit down and write a letter. The other perk is that Ned cut up a bowl of fruit and served it to me in bed this morning! (He was not able to actually climb the tree as you will see in the photo, so he had to resort to buying a pineapple from a lady on the street corner- probably with 20 of them in a basket on her head.)

OUR LIVING ARRANGEMENTS:
The baby home facility is really very nice. It is just 3 years old and probably one of the nicest place we have been in Africa. There is a volunteer apartment above the home for up to 8 people with a large living room and kitchen (we have a stove- most people and restaurants still cook over an open fire.) We are VERY lucky to have such a comfortable place to spend the next 3 months. Another couple and their 14 year old daughter are also here, but leaving soon. The director is Seventh Day Adventist and the compound is shared with an Adventist international relief program that her husband directs. The compound is fully fenced in and there are full time guards and grounds keepers so we feel very safe. We are preparing all of our own food; the out door market is about a 20 min. walk away, it is also possible to flag down one of the many Dalla Dallas (small mini van that usually packs in about 18 people) for a lift down the road for about $0.10 each way. They will go out of their way to stop and pick us up because we are wazungu (white people), and therefore are probably loaded with money; it will be ok for them to charge us $0.20 before we even understand what is going on.

THE BABY HOME:
This is such a wonderful place for all these children to be, but at the same time it is very different from the traditional American family system that we are so used too. It can be tough to see a couple of them struggle for their share of the love and affection. There are about 30 children; 10 toddlers + 20 babies can sometimes equal chaos. There are 3 full time nanny groups, so there are always 6 paid workers in the home (paid- as in $70/month wich is above average), as well as the director and any volunteers that might be around. Most of the nannies are very nice, but we definitely have a different way of pampering our babies! I will save the specifics of the day to day routine for later. Ned and I spend our time running back and forth between those who are the least attended to at the moment (i.e. the loudest). It is really pretty easy b/c it seems that there is one thing that makes them cry, they just want to be held:)It is very unusual to hold just one baby as I usually have one in each arm and one in the lap, propping his bottle up with an elbow.



TODDLERS:
The toddlers love Ned. When he arrives in the morning there will be four or five of them tugging on his arms yelling, “Daddy Daddy!” They are old enough for some sort of routine and group training, but the nannies usually have their hands full getting food made and keeping diapers washed…yes, cloth diapers that hang out on the line to dry. They have two washing machines and would love a third. Anyway, Ned and I are going to try and help come up with some additional preschool routines for the morning. We might have to get creative with supplies/materials because there are not too many and it is not like you can go to a 'Teachers-R-Us' and buy them. I am going to ask my family to send some teaching supplies, but the cost of shipping is so high that it is hardly worth it.
We are also thinking about different ways to help the big kids with dinner. Right now they sit at a nice little set of table and chairs, but all of us adults are feeing babies so there is no one to sit at the head of the table and ‘model’ what you are supposed to do with a cup, a bowl, and a spoon. Last night they all poured their water into their porridge bowls and then the watery mixture back into the cups, and then on to the table, over their neighbor's head, and on and on. I immediately took all of their cups and most of the food away, which caused a good 5 minutes of screaming. It was later that night I realized instead of just taking it away from them in a frenzy, I should have sat down at the table and helped them practice how to take a drink water and then a bite of food, but not both at the same time. Sippy Cups- that would be a miracle! (Porridge is served every night for dinner- they also get really good snacks like banana, avocado, bread, cookies, etc.)

That's probably enough for today. We will have more stories and photos to share in upcoming weeks. Hope all is well with everyone at home!

Ned & Emily

NED

NED
Ned can do everything better than I can…and it really ticks me off. I thought learning a language together would be fun, and it has been. But I like to be the one who gets it right away. Not so. He can sit down with the book for an hour and then walk away using all the verbs he just read, and remember the irregular forms as well. My only saving grace it that I am more willing to approach a stranger/storekeeper and try it out, but I usually have to ask Ned how to say it first…

The Poor Guy… I am the one who has spotted Baboons (while riding through the bush in the bed of a truck, sitting on 20 bags of rice with 19 other men), and the one who was able to see the Colobos Monkey in the jungle. Ned is the one who had food poisoning from his first local dish, had bed bugs attack two nights in a row, and whose best shirt and walking shorts were chewed up by a monkey that got into our hotel room via the balcony in the middle of the night….the poor guy.

Emily